Gold Hallmarks: How to Recognise and Read Them with Ease?
Titles, Guarantees and Symbols Decoded
Written by Déborah Baid, Founder · Mayuri ParisReading 13 min8 chapters
What the maison says
What to remember
You turn a wedding ring between your fingers and notice tiny engraved symbols on the inside. A diamond shape. An eagle's head. The number 750. These are not mere decorative details. These hallmarks are the legal signature of your jewellery, its metallurgical birth certificate. In France, every solid gold piece bears at least two hallmarks: a title hallmark, indicating the quantity of pure gold in the alloy, and a guarantee hallmark, certifying that this proportion has been verified. Knowing how to read them means distinguishing an 18ct gold ring from a vermeil piece, identifying French-made jewellery from an import, and understanding what you wear or what you buy.
In this guide, we review every hallmark you may encounter on a gold piece: title, guarantee, maker's mark, and vermeil. We explain where to find them, how to read them, and why they exist. By the end, you will be able to decipher any wedding ring, ring, or bracelet at a glance.
What Are Gold Hallmarks and Why Do They Exist?
Hallmarks have been a legal requirement in France since 1797. Their purpose: to guarantee the gold content of a piece and trace its origin. Pure gold (24 carat) is too soft for fine jewellery. It is therefore alloyed with other metals, copper, silver, and palladium, to produce a more durable material. But once gold is alloyed, the proportion of pure gold varies: a piece may contain 75% gold (18ct), 58.5% (14ct), or 37.5% (9ct). The consumer must be able to verify this proportion before purchasing.
This is the purpose of the French double hallmarking system: the first hallmark indicates the gold title (the proportion), and the second certifies that this title has been verified by an authorised inspection body. This system protects consumers against fraud and requires manufacturers to maintain strict traceability. If you purchase a piece marked 750, you have the legal guarantee that it contains at least 75% pure gold. If this hallmark is accompanied by an eagle's head, you also know it has been inspected in France.
Official French hallmark chart for gold, silver, and platinum: eagle's head, seahorse, scallop shell, clover, owl, Minerva, dog's head (French Customs and the Monnaie de Paris)
The title hallmark indicates the quantity of pure gold contained in the alloy, expressed in parts per thousand. In France, three titles are authorised for solid gold: 750, 585, and 375. The number represents the parts of pure gold per 1,000 parts of total alloy.
750 (18ct), the premium standard. This is the title Mayuri uses for all of our solid gold creations. A piece hallmarked 750 contains 75% pure gold (750‰) and 25% alloying metals. In 18ct yellow gold, this alloy is composed of silver and copper, with no nickel. 18ct white gold contains palladium (and sometimes nickel in older formulations or those produced outside the European Union). 18ct rose gold owes its warm tone to a higher proportion of copper, between 20 and 25%. The 750 hallmark guarantees a high pure gold content, a rich, true colour, and a resistance to tarnishing significantly superior to lower titles.
585 (14ct), the durability and value compromise. A piece hallmarked 585 contains 58.5% pure gold. This title is common in chain jewellers and in English-speaking countries. It offers greater durability (the alloy is harder) and a lower price point, though the colour is less rich and the gold more susceptible to reacting with perspiration and cosmetics.
375 (9ct), entry-level gold. This title, legal in France but uncommon, contains only 37.5% pure gold. It is found primarily in the United Kingdom and Ireland. The colour is pale, tarnishing occurs more quickly, and customer perception is often mixed. Below 375‰, a piece is no longer considered solid gold under French law.
Guarantee Hallmarks: Eagle's Head, Scallop Shell, Clover, and Owl
The guarantee hallmark certifies that the declared title has been verified. In France, each precious metal is represented by an animal, and gold has several depending on the title and the origin of the piece. The table below is the one published by French Customs and the Monnaie de Paris, which every retailer is required to display in store.
Eagle's head, gold 750‰. This is the guarantee hallmark for 18ct gold, applied to both new pieces and second-hand items of French origin. A number sometimes accompanies it to specify the title: 3 for 750‰, 1 for 916‰ (22 carat).
Seahorse, gold 999‰. This marks near-pure gold, 24 carat, which is too soft for everyday jewellery. Contrary to a common misconception, it does not apply to platinum.
Scallop shell (585‰) and clover (375‰). Lower titles each have their own symbol. The former horse's head no longer appears on the official table: if you see it, the piece is antique.
Owl, second-hand gold of foreign or uncertain origin. A second-hand gold piece whose origin cannot be established receives an owl mark. Below 375‰, the mark "ET" indicates a fineness too low to qualify as gold.
The dog's head and Minerva's head: knowing the difference. The dog's head mark indicates Platinum (950‰ with the number 1), while Minerva's head indicates 925 Silver (925‰ with the number 1). Neither mark appears on a solid gold piece.
The Maat wedding ring in 18ct yellow gold with detailed chevron engraving, showcasing the precision of Mayuri's precious metalwork
Where to Find Hallmarks on a Piece of Jewellery
The placement of hallmarks follows established industry conventions. Knowing where to look will save you time and prevent confusion.
Rings: inside the band. Hallmarks are struck on the inside of the ring, generally near the base (palm side). On wide rings or wedding rings, you will often find several symbols aligned: the fineness mark (750), the guarantee mark (eagle's head), and the maker's mark (a lozenge with initials). On very fine rings, the hallmarks may be microscopic. A jeweller's loupe (10x magnification) will help you read them.
Necklaces and bracelets: the clasp or engraved plate. Hallmarks are found on the clasp (lobster claw, spring ring) or on a small metal plate set into the chain. On Venetian chains or bangles, the plate is often discreet, placed near the join. Turn the clasp under direct light to reveal the marks.
Earrings: the post or clasp. Hallmarks are struck on the post (for studs) or on the clasp (for hoops and drop Earrings). As Earrings are often small, hallmarks may be reduced to the bare minimum: sometimes only the fineness mark (750) and the maker's mark, with no visible guarantee mark.
The maker's mark is an identifying mark for the manufacturer. It takes the form of a horizontal lozenge containing the maker's (or importer's) initials and a distinctive symbol. This hallmark is compulsory in France for any solid gold or Platinum piece placed on the market.
Traceability and accountability. The maker's mark makes it possible to trace a piece back to its origin. In the event of a dispute (non-compliant gold fineness, an allergic reaction caused by a prohibited alloy, or a manufacturing defect), the authorities can identify the manufacturer through this lozenge. Every master goldsmith, every industrial manufacturer, and every importer registers their mark with the Monnaie de Paris, which maintains a national registry.
An example. If you see a lozenge containing the letters "AB" and a star, you can in theory consult the guarantee registry (accessible through regional guarantee offices) to find out who "AB" is. In practice, this process is rarely undertaken by consumers, but it does exist. The maker's mark is, above all, a tool for professional regulation and fraud prevention.
What if the Piece Combines Platinum and 18ct Gold?
A bimetal piece, combining Platinum and 18ct Yellow Gold for example, brings together two precious metals, each with its own legal fineness (950‰ for Platinum, 750‰ for gold) and its own hallmark. Two thresholds come into play and must not be confused. The first is a weight threshold: above 3g, the entire piece must be hallmarked, regardless of the combination. The second is a proportion threshold: the dominant metal always bears its mark, while a simple decorative detail or inlay in the other metal, what regulations refer to as an "incidental precious metal inlay," does not receive its own hallmark. Consider the Essence de Bandor ring, a signet ring in Platinum traced with a fine line of 18ct Yellow Gold: the Platinum body bears the dog's head mark, and the gold inlay, being incidental, does not require an eagle's head. A single guarantee hallmark is sufficient.
The Essence de Bandor ring in platinum and 18ct yellow gold, with an inlaid gold thread and flush-set Ruby and Sapphire: a two-metal piece receives a hallmark for each metal
When the second metal is no longer purely decorative but forms a true part of the piece, the mark changes. For gold combined with silver, the official table sets the threshold at 3% of weight: beyond this, the piece receives a mixed hallmark, a boar's head paired with an eagle's head. In all cases, the weight of each metal is declared to the guarantee office, which determines the appropriate mark.
What to Do if Your Jewellery Has No Hallmark?
An antique piece, a handcrafted jewel, a gift purchased abroad: sometimes hallmarks are absent, worn away with time, or do not conform to French standards. In such cases, several complementary tests can help verify the nature of the metal.
The absence of a hallmark is not always cause for concern. French law exempts pieces weighing under 3g for gold and platinum, and under 30g for silver, from the requirement to bear a guarantee hallmark. Hallmarking carries a real cost: submission to an assay office or approved delegate, piece-by-piece marking, and workshop time. To avoid inflating the final price, some houses choose not to hallmark when it is not compulsory. An earring weighing 1.5g without an eagle's head mark may therefore be perfectly genuine 18ct gold.
The magnet test. Pure gold and its alloys (18ct, 14ct, 9ct) are non-magnetic. Hold a strong magnet close to the piece. If it is attracted, the jewel contains iron, nickel, or another ferromagnetic metal, and is therefore not solid gold. Please note: this test rules out crude counterfeits, but cannot distinguish genuine 18ct gold from gold-plated brass, as brass is equally non-magnetic.
The density test. Gold has an exceptionally high density: approximately 19.3 g/cm³ for pure gold, and around 15 to 16 g/cm³ for 18ct gold, depending on the alloy. With a precision scale and a graduated container, you can measure the volume of the piece by water displacement, then calculate its density (mass divided by volume). A density close to 15 to 16 g/cm³ confirms 18ct gold. Below 12 g/cm³, the piece is most likely gold-plated brass.
The acid test (not recommended for home use). Acid test kits allow you to assess the gold fineness by applying a drop of nitric acid to a scratch on the surface of the piece. The reaction, whether in colour or effervescence, indicates the fineness. This test is aggressive and will damage the jewel. We do not recommend it for personal use at home. It should be left to qualified professionals with the appropriate equipment.
Professional assessment. If you have any doubt, entrust the piece to a certified jeweller or a qualified gemologist. XRF spectrometry (X-ray fluorescence) provides the exact composition of the alloy without causing any damage to the jewel. It typically costs between £25 and £50 and includes a detailed certificate. It is the most reliable method for any piece without a hallmark or of uncertain origin.
To go further in identifying gold, consult our comprehensive guide on recognition tests.
What is the difference between a 750 hallmark and an 18ct hallmark?
The 750 hallmark and the 18 cts mark refer to the same gold purity: 75% fine gold. In France, the millesimal fineness system is used (750 parts per thousand), while English-speaking countries use the carat system (18 carats = 18/24 = 75%). A French piece of jewellery will bear the number 750, while an American or British piece may be marked "18 cts" or "18 carats". Both are entirely equivalent.
Why do some gold pieces carry only one visible hallmark?
On very delicate pieces such as fine chains and lightweight Earrings, available space is limited. The maker may stamp only the fineness mark (750) and the maker's mark (lozenge), omitting the guarantee mark (eagle's head) due to lack of space. Legally, double hallmarking (fineness mark and guarantee mark) remains mandatory, though inspectors sometimes tolerate this simplification on miniature pieces. If in doubt, a jeweller can verify the metal fineness by spectrometry.
Does the maker's hallmark change if I have my ring recut?
No, the maker's hallmark remains that of the original manufacturer. If a jeweller resizes your wedding ring (whether enlarging or reducing it), they will not re-strike a new maker's hallmark, unless new metal is added through a partial recast. In that case, they may add their own maker's hallmark alongside the original. As a general rule, a simple resizing preserves the original hallmarks.
Can a vermeil piece carry an eagle's head hallmark?
No, never. The eagle hallmark certifies solid gold (750, 585, or 375 ‰). Vermeil is a piece of jewellery made from solid silver coated in gold, not solid gold. The hallmark for vermeil is the letter V, sometimes accompanied by the head of Minerva (the silver hallmark). If you see an eagle hallmark, you have a solid gold piece, not vermeil.
Do hallmarks guarantee that a piece of jewellery is hypoallergenic?
Not directly. The 750 hallmark certifies the gold content, but does not specify the exact alloy composition. 18ct yellow gold typically contains silver and copper, with no nickel, and rarely causes allergic reactions. 18ct white gold may contain palladium (hypoallergenic) or nickel (a common allergen), depending on the formulation. Since 2001, REACH regulations impose a strict nickel release limit (≤ 0.5 µg/cm²/week) for any jewellery in prolonged contact with the skin. If you have sensitive skin, opt for 18ct yellow gold or Platinum, or ask the manufacturer for the exact alloy composition.
Where can I verify the authenticity of a maker's hallmark?
Regional guarantee offices maintain a registry of maker's marks. You can contact them to identify a manufacturer from their lozenge mark. The Monnaie de Paris also centralises this information. In practice, this approach is most useful in cases of dispute or when having an antique piece appraised. For everyday purchases, the presence of the fineness mark (750) and the guarantee mark (eagle's head) is sufficient to confirm compliance.
Does a piece of jewellery purchased abroad need to carry French hallmarks?
Not necessarily, unless it is imported and sold in France. A piece of jewellery made and purchased abroad carries the hallmarks of its country of origin (for example, the British lion for 18ct gold in the United Kingdom, or a star followed by the maker's number in Italy). If you import it into France to resell it, it will need to be re-hallmarked by a French assay office. For personal use, however, foreign hallmarks remain valid.
Can a hallmark fade over time?
Yes, especially on areas subject to friction (the inner surface of a wedding ring worn daily, or a bracelet clasp). A hallmark is stamped into the surface of the metal, to a depth of just a few tenths of a millimetre. After decades of wear, it can become illegible. This does not affect the composition of the piece, but it does make identification more difficult. If you have a vintage jewel recut or polished, ask your jeweller to preserve the hallmarks.
I cannot see any hallmark on my piece of jewellery; is that normal?
Have you checked with a magnifying glass? More and more houses are having their pieces laser-marked, a process approved by French Customs, to avoid distorting the metal with a mechanical hallmark. The mark is then very fine, sometimes invisible to the naked eye, and a jeweller's loupe will reveal it. Also check the weight: below 3 g of gold or Platinum, and below 30 g of silver, the guarantee hallmark is not mandatory.
